The story of how Guerlain invented lipstick as we know it
The first lipstick was born in 1870. That year Guerlain launched the first tube in the history of push-button and refillable makeup.
Javier Caballero TOPPhoto: Imaxtree
Lip painting dates back to ancient times. There is documentation that places the first colors already in Mesopotamia, between the Greeks and the Romans. Cleopatra, for example, was a great user of the first lipsticks, a paste that was then made with precious stones and natural pigments such as clay, henna or, for the carmine shade, cochineal.
Millennia have passed from that original product, and its image has evolved by leaps and bounds and its use, reserved for a long time for the upper echelons, has become popular. In 1870 came what would be the germ of what we know today as lipstick. That year the Guerlain firm launched Ne m'oubliez pas ('Don't forget me' in French), which they call the first red stick in history, although its tone was closer to pink. But what is pink if not a shade of red with excess white pigment? The brand had realized that lip balm was best applied in a cylinder shape and French aristocrats (still the only social class that could afford this cosmetic treat) bought it more frequently.
New KissKiss Tender Matte lipstick from GUERLAIN, with shea butter.
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The invention was presented in the first tube in the history of modern makeup, which had a button that revealed the secret that kept that promise of an indelible memory. But, beyond the precursory technical innovations of modern systems that allow the bar to be raised and lowered, the house was ahead of the sustainable trend: it was rechargeable, a requirement of current generations for cosmetic sellers.
Of that first approach to the modern bar, little more than its memory and some publicity are preserved: in 1943, in the middle of World War II, the bombing of the Bécon-les-Bruyères factory, in France, ceased its production and it disappeared completely. . Even so, the lipstick, each improved version, has remained and has been largely popularized thanks to media such as cinema or advertising, as historians such as Sarah Schaffer and Neville Williams write. Guerlain, with the memory of that first product, has created authentic icons for the mouth, such as KissKiss, from 1995, with 40 shades designed by Olivier Echaudemaison, its creative director; or Rouge G, whose version with multiple covers to combine as desired, sold separately from the bar, became the best-selling lipstick when it was launched in 2019. They bet on red, and they won.
Guerlain advertising campaign to promote his lipsticks and his stores in New York and Paris.
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