If you've ever had to get a little creative and reuse one of your beauty or skincare products (for example, because you ran out, or because your suitcase was lost, or because you refused to to using your boyfriend's questionable-looking bar soap), you'll link me to using Living Proof Frizz-Free Conditioner as a hair product, body wash, and shaving cream all in one last summer.
I wish I could say this skincare naiveté is because I just love living proof so much I wanted to literally bathe in it. Unfortunately, it was rather an act of desperation after an allergy test revealed that I have allergies and sensitivities to nearly two dozen ingredients commonly found in most skincare and beauty products on the market. I had no choice but to ditch nearly every product in my arsenal, leaving me with little more than my go-to conditioner, which quickly became my holy grail product for a few dismal weeks.
In recent years, I had started to notice a mysterious itch all over my body, especially after getting my hair and nails done. I didn't immediately connect the dots that it was an allergy because online searches told me I would have located blistering and peeling skin at the site if that was the case, and my scalp and nails were mostly fine. But over time, the itching got worse and worse, reaching a fever pitch after my first post-quarantine balayage appointment in June. My whole body itched so I had no choice but to take an antihistamine before bed most nights for some relief.
After making an appointment with an allergist, I got the news that would make beauty lovers cry: I had developed contact allergies to a lot of common substances. This includes formaldehyde, coconut derivatives, lavender oil, tea tree oil, and a bunch of other stuff with super long scientific names that I've never heard of, but found in an ingredients list on the back of many products in the pharmacy.
My official diagnosis? Allergic contact dermatitis, a type of eczema in which an allergy develops to something that comes in contact with the skin. I've always counted in the 60-70% of women with sensitive skin, but that term means different things to different people - some are sensitive to fragrances, others have frequently dry or irritated skin. For me, it showed up in many ways: Cheap earrings from Claire's as a trendy teenager would have my ears oozing, bleeding, and peeling (which I now attribute to a nickel and gold allergy), exposing my skin to the sun even with sunscreen. , would lead to blistering, or itchiness after using a "free and gentle" fabric softener...you get the basics.
This is what I learned:
There are two types of contact dermatitis and both are very common.Classified as irritant or allergic, contact dermatitis is a skin reaction "triggered by something that has come in contact with the skin, such as a chemical, cosmetic, or metal," explained Purvi Parikh, MD, an allergist. and infectious disease physician with the Allergy and Asthma Network, "People develop red, itchy, scaly rashes that can even blister in the most severe cases." The skin can locally swell, ooze, or crack," says Dr. Kathleen Dass, an immunologist at the Michigan Center for Allergy, Asthma, and Immunology.
Dr. Parikh noted that it can be difficult to pinpoint exactly what is causing the problem, and here's why: "With allergic contact dermatitis, the reaction is delayed and localized to where the product is , but it may not necessarily be something you apply directly to that area," Dr. Dass said. "For example, with contact dermatitis of the eyelid, it may not be a moisturizer or a product that is applied directly to the eyelid. A very common cause is nail polish applied to the hands that is then used to touch the face. ".
Even more complicated is that repeated exposure may be necessary to develop the allergy.I need ideas for how to decorate my new classroom. I'm usually a traveling teacher, so I haven't had to decorate a… https://t.co/unOCzR9pEY
— Michelle Udall Wed Jul 21 22:00:57 +0000 2021
Unlike irritant contact dermatitis, which appears almost immediately, allergic contact dermatitis can take days or even years to develop. "You can develop a reaction to products or ingredients at any time," Dr. Dass said. Your job may also put you at higher risk from repeated exposures, such as healthcare workers, hairdressers, estheticians, and machinists," who are more exposed to common allergy-prone irritants and chemicals. Basically, "your immune system needs being exposed to something repeatedly and then decide whether to tolerate it or become allergic to it," says Dr. Parikh.
If you think you have a contact allergy, call your doctor."The most important first step is to identify the ingredient causing the allergic reaction," explains Dr. Dass. "An allergist or dermatologist will apply patch tests to your back - these patches have tiny chambers that contain common allergens. An allergist may also apply a specific product they suspect. After 48 hours, the patches will be removed. Your doctor may even ask you to come back in 72 or 96 hours for a second and/or third reading."
Because these reactions are delayed, your doctor will need to examine the patches after several days, possibly requiring more than one office visit. "Once you identify the ingredient, you should immediately stop and avoid products that contain this product," Dr. Dass said. "Your allergist may recommend specific topical and/or oral corticosteroids, barrier creams, or moisturizing lotions to help your skin feel better." My dermatologist created a profile for me on SkinSafe, an app that helps you identify and examine labels to find products that are safe for you.
While a visit to your derm is a great first step, an allergist can "pinpoint the exact ingredient that is causing the contact dermatitis," said Dr. Dass, adding, "I would also highly recommend seeing a a specialist or expert if your rash has not resolved with stopping the products or if your skin is blistering or peeling."
When it comes to finding products for sensitive skin, labels can't always be trusted.Getting patch tested was the easy part. I was relieved to find out what was causing the problem, but that was just the beginning of my contact allergy journey. Eliminating almost everything in my routine meant that I would have to find new products (without irritants) that were safe for me.
If you peruse the aisles of any beauty supply store or drugstore, you'll find dozens (if not more!) of products making all kinds of claims: "organic", "clean", "anti-allergenic/hypoallergenic" , "natural", "gentle" or "for sensitive skin", are all big buzzwords today. But there's no federal regulation on either of these terms, making ingredient checking crucial if you're, in fact, dealing with a skin condition like eczema or contact allergies.
"According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), there are no federal regulations governing products identified as hypoallergenic," said Dr. Dass. "This means that companies can arbitrarily label their product as 'natural', 'hypoallergenic', 'organic' or 'safe for sensitive skin'. Each company has its own definition."
Both doctors recommend avoiding products with dyes and fragrances as a good starting point, as they can cause irritation even in those without a confirmed allergy. And it's not just cosmetics that can cause an outbreak: cleaning and household products, jewelry, and even candles can aggravate skin allergies.
It's taken me weeks to wind down my routine.I've replaced my beloved products with ones that don't elicit a response. Not only was I able to give the once-loved products to family members, donating the rest to my local women's shelter, but this gave me the opportunity to find new favorites. I've made it a point to support small businesses - including BIPOC and/or LGBTQ owned operations - whose products rely less on chemicals and preservatives than the more mainstream brands out there.
I have yet to comb through each ingredient list with a magnifying glass, but some options that are safe for me include Raw Shea Moisture Locking Shampoo, Bela Natural Goat's Milk Soap, CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser, Living Proof Perfect Hair Day Dry Shampoo (PhD), and yes, my darling Living Proof Frizz-Free Conditioner. I also love Charlie's Soap cleaning products and detergents, and Bath Geek hand soaps, both companies that specialize in allergy-safe household and cleaning products. Fortunately, self-quarantine has meant that I don't have to worry much about makeup, perfume or beauty treatments these days.
If you notice any skin sensitivity or irritation and you're not sure what it might be, I can't recommend seeing an allergist. It can go a long way to discover a new routine, but it will be worth it when you no longer shave your legs with conditioner or rely on antihistamines for a good nap.
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