In recent years there has been a radical change towards a more natural contouring.To verify it, just look at the evolution of the King of Contouring, makeup artist Mario Devivanovic.Despite being a pioneer of this transformative sculpture technique, catapulting to the top of the world of beauty by the Kardashian in the 2010, approach 2.0 that adopts lately is clearly lighter, that is, softer.Hence the term ‘soft sculpting’.
"The contouring tendency began to change when people began to realize that social networks makeup is not the same as everyday makeup," explains Devivanovic, which has just launched their new Soft Sculpt collection, composed ofThe three essentials of any contouring ': stick, blusher and illuminator."Now everyone knows how to have a contouring and has become part of the daily beauty routine, people are realizing that a sculpted look can be achieved with much less makeup.".
Los Angeles Mai Quynh maquiladora believes that we have not only perfected our sculpting skills, but also drives us the new growing and obsession with skin care."People appreciate their own skin and take care of it better not to have to depend only on makeup," says Quynh, and underlines the added beauty of building on a brilliant, juicy and healthy base."We want to seem more natural and less exaggerated," adds devivanovic."We are seeing on social networks that younger generations follow this approach and is very refreshing.I'm lovin 'it".
Although you usually think to make a contouring you have to apply makeup directly in the hollows of the cheeks, deduivanovic warns that this gesture can lead to a heavier effect and unnatural look.Instead, apply the contouring stick or the bronzer a little above the hole."Blur up to subtly lift the skin and add warmth," explains Devivanovic."This creates a more natural sculpted".The other gold of the professional is to start applying very little product and increase the amount as needed, with special care during the day."To get a softer and more natural look, you have to be aware of how the makeup will be seen in daylight," says Devivanovic."Sculpt the jaw or nose can harden a lot when it is outdoors".Makeup artist Naoko Scintu follows a similar approach that gives priority to what is most flattering in real life."People want to look pretty with natural light and not only in an environment with controlled lighting," says Scintu.
Buy: Makeup by Mario Stick (€ 30)
Buy: Westman Atelier bar (€ 52)
Buy: Fenty Beauty makeup bar in Sephora (€ 51.99)
Buy: KKW makeup bar (C.p.V)
Although it is difficult to overcome the comfort that a contouring stick gives you, both Scintu and Quynh defend the 'second skin' effect finish that is achieved by playing with a medium -tone makeup base or a darker tone than the natural tone of theskin, with the help of a brush or a beautyblender."I love sculpting the forehead, cheekbones, nose and jaw with a darker tone of Armani Beauty Luminous Silk Foundation," explains Quynh."I think using a darker base color is very well imitated by real skin and seems more natural".
Buy: Armani Beauty Luminous Silk Makeup Fund in Sephora (€ 51.99)
Buy: Bobbi Brown makeup bar in El Corte Inglés (€ 45)
Buy: Base of Pat McGrath Labs in Sephora (€ 70.99)
Buy: Kevyn Aucoin base (€ 50)
"The blush causes the skin to seem healthier and natural," explains Devivanovic, which always completes the Beauty equation with a touch of blush.To apply it correctly, the expert suggests smiling slightly and applying the blush in the highest part of the cheeks."To raise the face more, do not apply it very down," he warns, and adds that he loves to apply a very subtle layer in the nose, forehead and chin to achieve a more current effect.As for color and texture, to get a "fresh and bright face", Scintu opts for liquid or cream formulas."They mimic the natural appearance of the skin, so apply the product very slightly and only in the T zone so that the skin retains its juiciness," he explains.
Buy: Bush by Mario (€ 30)
Buy: Kjaer Weis cream blush in Luisaviaroma (€ 49)
Buy: Saie blush at Cult Beauty (€ 23)
Buy: ILIA blush (C.p.V)
For deduivanovic, the illuminator should never be too obvious, with texture or heavy."The intention of the illuminator is to give the skin a natural brightness and illuminate it, not that a strip is noticed along the cheekbones," he explains."I always ask my clients to smile when I apply the illuminator to make sure I don't apply it on the wrinkles of the eye contour.".Another infallible strategy is to opt for a liquid or cream illuminator."For me, liquid illuminators are the most natural because they melt with the skin," says Quynh."Powdered illuminators tend to be caked on the skin and are usually too bright, especially in photos.They can stay as if you had shine or fatty skin instead of a radiant and juicy appearance ”.To add the fair amount of "brightness", she trusts the Nude A-Highlight illuminator of Armani Beauty and applies it in the eyebrow bone, the inner corner of the eye, the cheekbone, the bridge of the nose and the arch and the archof Cupid.
"There is no single way to sculpt and enhance the complexion that serves everyone and will always depend on the moment and place," says Devivanovic."It's a matter of finding what favors your face and, most importantly, knowing how to differentiate the makeup from social networks from real life.".
Buy: Tower 28 lighting balm in Revolve (€ 18)
Buy: Giorgio Armani Beauty liquid illuminator in Sephora (€ 49.99)
Buy: Milk Makeup illuminator in Sephora (€ 12.99)
This article was originally published in Vogue.co.UK
By Cristina Díaz