Everything you need to know before adding hyaluronic acid to your beauty routine

Skin care
Hydrates, lifts, plumps... could we be overestimating this ingredient? These are the keys, according to three dermatologists, to use it correctly

By Avanti Dalal

hyaluronic acid is one of the first that comes to mind. Plumps, hydrates, fights signs of aging, reduces scars... "It's my holy grail!" a friend tells me by message. "I can't live without it, even if I don't know how to pronounce it," another tells me. Hya-lu-ró-ni-co acid is famous for its high moisturizing power and others are attributed to it, such as tightening the skin, sealing hydration and keeping its cells plump and healthy. But as much as we like this ingredient, we may be going too far, since the studies carried out with the product are not as conclusive as we imagine. Could it be that we are overvaluing it? We asked the experts.

How does hyaluronic acid work?

Rough hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide that is present in skin and joint cells. “It is a hygroscopic agent that is naturally present in the skin and joints in the form of a viscous substance that provides flexibility and moisture to the skin. It attracts water, so it draws it out where it can to keep the skin moist and hydrated,” explains Dr. Kiran Sethi, a dermatologist and medical director at Isya Aesthetics in Delhi. Its molecule is capable of retaining 1,000 to 6,000 times its weight in water, as long as it has somewhere to get it from.

So far it looks like a super ingredient, but when we apply it topically, its operation is somewhat more complicated. When applied to the skin, "the molecules only hydrate the surface," dermatologist Poorva Shah explains. This is because hyaluronic acid has a very high molecular weight, so its molecule is too large and heavy to penetrate the skin well. Cosmetic science is able, through chemical processes, to break it down into smaller, low molecular weight particles to improve penetration, but it still fails to get past the epidermis (the top layer of the skin).

Everything you need to know before add hyaluronic acid to your beauty routine

That's why fillers exist. “Normal hyaluronic acid tends to spread on the surface, but in dermal fillers, we cross-link it so it stays put. Depending on how reticulated it is, we use it to lift the skin, define the chin, nose or chin, or to fill in wrinkles”, Sethi tells us.

Can topical hyaluronic acid harm the skin?

There is no conclusive study showing that topical hyaluronic acid attracts and retains as much water as it is claimed to. As a result, a class action lawsuit was filed against the cosmetics brand Peter Thomas Roth, alleging deceptive advertising surrounding its Water Drench line, in which it was said that the ingredient "draws moisture from the atmosphere to your skin" and " it retains 1000 times its weight in water." In fact, there is research that suggests that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (the one that penetrates the most deeply) could cause inflammatory reactions in sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, since skin cells they would recognize it as a foreign element in this form.

This ability to attract water could even be harmful if applied in very dry climates with very low levels of humidity. “He gets the water from where he can. So if there is little humidity in the environment, it uses the water that has accumulated in the deepest layers of the skin, including your own natural hyaluronic acid, to bring it to the surface, where it eventually evaporates leaving the skin drier still,” warns Dr. Geetika Mittal Gupta, dermatologist and founder of ISAAC Luxe. Even if we get a momentary reward (like when you run your tongue over your lips to combat dryness), your skin will end up more dehydrated than ever. There are studies that support it: low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can increase water loss by extracting it from the skin's own reserves.

Even so, is it still effective for plumping and moisturizing the skin?

As long as you use it correctly, and if you really notice very dehydrated skin, our three experts recommend keeping it on the vanity. “Moisten your face first, because hyaluronic acid needs to have a reserve of water to draw from. And after you apply it, seal it in with a rich moisturizer,” advises Gupta. We remind you again that this moisture will not be maintained in the long term, but you will achieve a more hydrated and healthy appearance without affecting the level of hydration of your skin. And, as confirmed by the three professionals, it's a quick fix and there's nothing wrong with it either. "The effect is temporary, but it works great if you need urgent hydration," says Dr. Shah. If you're still looking for your topical formula, go for one that combines different molecular weights. The larger molecules will settle on the skin. surface and will act as a barrier, while those of medium size will form a kind of hydration film.

What alternatives are there to hyaluronic acid?

Experts advise using hyaluronic acid once a day, or when you really need a hydration shot. If you want to try something else, the three doctors speak highly of polyglutamic acid. "It's a cutting-edge ingredient that's going to revolutionize cosmetics in the future," Shah tells us. It's a moisturizer that, more importantly, inhibits hyaluronidase (the enzyme that breaks down the body's natural hyaluronic acid), which also makes it in a preventative product.

This article originally appeared on Vogue.in

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