Here's exactly how to incorporate hydroquinone into your skincare routine

Hydroquinone is the LeBron James of skincare. This skin lightener is as controversial as it is effective. When properly incorporated into your complexion regimen, hydroquinone decreases melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for melanin production, to diminish the appearance of hyperpigmentation. For this reason, many people consider it a skin whitening ingredient. According to Miami-based dermatologist Roberta Del Campo, it should be considered more of a "color mixer."

However, things can go wrong (specifically, a rare and unwanted side effect called exogenous ochronosis, "which is a paradoxical darkening of the treated skin," Louisiana board-certified dermatologist Mamina Turegano tells Allure) if you don't meticulously follow the dos and don'ts of hydroquinone.

Additionally, this ingredient has been banned in Europe since 2001 due to studies that found evidence of carcinogenicity in rodents when hydroquinone was administered orally. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) took this fact into account and continued to consider hydroquinone safe for topical application because there is not enough clear evidence that the risk outweighs the benefits. In addition, dermatologists are still willing to prescribe it to their patients.

Needless to say, we were forced to ask certified dermatologists to explain exactly what to do with the melasma remedy to make it a safe and beneficial part of your skincare routine.

Before incorporating hydroquinone into your routine, ask your dermatologist if it's really right for your skin tone and complexion concerns. Although it is suitable for all skin types, Turegano is cautious in recommending this ingredient to those with dry and sensitive skin, due to the irritation it can cause. She is also cautious about incorporating

hydroquinone to their skin care routines, as the risk of exogenous ochronosis is greater than that of people with lighter complexions. Hydroquinone is not ruled out in these cases, but caution should be exercised and monitored closely. DO NOT use hydroquinone for too long.

An important key to hydroquinone is short-term use. You can apply it twice a day for at least six weeks (and no more than six months). Within one to three months, you should start to see the hyperpigmentation fade. Once you've achieved the desired results, stop using hydroquinone daily and use it only if hyperpigmentation returns," says Aegean Chan, a board-certified dermatologist in Santa Barbara, California.

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Although sun protection is a fact, regardless of what you put on your face, it is an essential element that is worth highlighting. Applying ample sunscreen and diligently protecting your skin from UV exposure are the best results with hydroquinone, says Chan.

DO NOT mix hydroquinone with these ingredients Turegano

and Chan agree that hydroquinone does not get along with

the

benzoyl peroxide, hydrogen peroxide

or other peroxide products. Not only will the pairing of them cause irritation and dryness, but it can also temporarily stain your skin.

Since hydroquinone itself can cause irritation, Chan also recommends avoiding other potentially irritating ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs, including the glycolic, lactic, and citrus varieties.

Do NOT use hydroquinone if you are pregnant or breastfeeding Are you about to have

a baby? Did you just give birth and are you breastfeeding your baby? Well, hydroquinone isn't for you right now, says Chan. Studies have not focused on the effects of hydroquinone absorption in pregnant or lactating people, but "absorption [into the blood] through the skin is between 35 and 45 percent, which It's quite high," he adds. "Although no birth defects were observed in rat fetuses exposed to high levels of hydroquinone, we do not have human data showing that its use is safe during pregnancy."

Fortunately, there are alternatives to keep melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation at bay. Ask your dermatologist about tranexamic acid, which New York dermatologist Y. Claire Chang says is gentle, safe during pregnancy, and can be used long-term.

Hydroquinone is available by prescription and without it. The latter usually has a higher percentage and can be formulated with a retinoid and a topical steroid, Chan says. Her favorite drugstore option for mild hyperpigmentation is the affordable Ambi Skincare Fade Cream.

Connecticut board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara is a fan of Obagi's Medical Fx C-Clarifying Serum to treat her melasma, while Del Campo loves Murad's Rapid Age Spot and Pigment Lightening Serum.

You can also get a prescription dark spot formula without going to the dermatologist through Agency, an option Allure.com beauty editor Devon Abelman recommends to lighten her skin. Instead of spreading it all over your skin, make sure to mark exactly where you need it with a cotton swab.

As powerful as this product is, you can control its potency by following the do's and don'ts to the letter.